11.05.2009

per your request

things you can give me for my birthday which will make me very happy:


a cd with 'don't stop believing' on it, or other cds with music you think i'd like (i have boniveritis and i have to get some new tunes soon, or else!)
some krishna das music
an itunes gift certificate
flo braker's the simple art of perfect baking
a gift certificate to omnivore books
a yoga mat bag
a couple of yoga blocks


and if you are feeling really generous:
aletha soule ceramics
the big il bisonte bag i've always dreamt of

thank you and good night.

11.04.2009

a few links to help pass the time



rabbits are the new chicken: novella and i in brooklyn on 11/15. a huge thank you to sasha for her fantastic design skillz. info on our diner dinners and party at mast brothers chocolate factory coming soon...

it's decorative gourd season...: enough said

2009 beaujolais nouveau party at kermit lynch...a little birdie told me we'll be having boudin blanc with cabbage, apples and potatoes. could it be? the sausage to end all sausages? plan on it!

chris and janet brought back some beautiful jacques genin chocolates for me. i may have never tasted anything so perfect.

i am sort of obsessed with liberty, as we all know. these amazing glasses are my newest fave.


11.02.2009

OPENfuture--the confused recap

our fearless leader frank smigiel at alemany farm

okay, let's talk about OPENfuture before a whole month passes and i feel like it's completely irrelevant.

when jerome realized that he was going to be gone for the five weeks directly preceding the event, i think he started to panic a bit. i'd just lost my job, so they wondered if i wanted to come in as the chef/coordinator, and i said YES! when i realized how huge it was all going to be, i insisted we bring in chris lee, too. we're a package deal these days.

then jerome left and we began to realize how much work there still was left to do.

then soul food farm burned down and i knew i had to do whatever i could to help raise some money for alexis. i was down at esalen without phone or internet while bonnie planned the event for 10/11, a mere six days before OPENfuture. ack!

there were meetings and emails galore. googledocs became my most visited webpage. for about a month, i was simultaneously working on both of these events. my head was spinning. so many emails! so many obstacles!

where would we get the steer? we wanted something grass-fed, and relatively small, something from someone we knew well, so we knew we had to turn to bob and ross cannard at green string farm.

where would we slaughter it? the animal was far up north in red bluff, ca, but could we do it closer so that our friend could videotape it for her graduate school project? no, that didn't work out.

would the slaughter happen in time so that we could hang it for the three weeks necessary to age the meat properly? october 17th minus three weeks equals september 27th. but the day we were having this conversation was....september 28th. uh-oh. so the steer was set for slaughter on 10/1. but when i called on 10/3 to inquire about the brain, which we'd wanted to remove and give to lance to make grappa out of for us, it still was alive in the field. uh-oh. i had to turn a blind eye.

where would we hang it the animal? we'd all heard of avedano's, and some of us had been there. but had anyone ever actually spoken to any of the meatladies? eventually, we got in touch and they agreed to let us hang the animal in their shop

but how would we transport it to the shop, and once there, how the heck were we going to get it onto the hooks? uh, let's just say there's a dent on the wall in front of avedano's that wasn't there before. and a butcher who shall remain nameless may have sprained his wrist.

where would we cook it? what sf landowner in their right mind would let us dig a 7 x 3 x 2 foot trench in their yard and cook a quarter-ton animal? for a while, zeitgeist was considered, but that fell through. finally, jason at alemany farm agreed to let us do it. but we were planning to bike the cooked monster to SFMOMA and alemany farm was pretty much on the other side of town. how the heck were we going to make this work?

and what about a fire permit? ha! problem of the century. jason said we could just go without as far as he was concerned, but alemany farm is basically on the freeway, so someone was guaranteed to see the billowing smoke around 3am and call the fire department. we couldn't stomach the thought of being stuck with a half-raw steer in the middle of the night, so we knew we had to get a fire permit. but how were we going to convince the city?

and who the heck was going to show us how to cook the thing? after months of phone tag with our prospective spit-roaster, we got chewed out for waiting until three weeks before the event to contact him. it was ugly, and we got desperate. for a few days there, i was maniacally googling "how to spit-roast a whole steer" and considering flying someone in from germany, where spit-roasted steer is a traditional oktoberfest dish. then, our hero jack cannard agreed to supervise and bring the equipment.

chris and jack preparing the steer to roast at alemany farm


how would a rickety-ass tricycle sam bought from an oakland crackhead get a quarter-ton steer from alemany farm to SFMOMA?

allow me to illustrate what we're talking about here:
there is no sane answer for this. let me just say that howie is a crazy mofo. i still can't believe he made it happen. not to mention the fact that they were so pleased with their progress on the way to the museum that the entire entourage stopped for shots of tequila at a bar. with the steer. while the rest of us were pacing back and forth wondering if we should call the fire department to help.

oh, and so much more: there was the bread--were there going to be testers? and who was going to make the mole? where would we get avocados from in october? why weren't any of my urban farmers calling me back about the veggies for the city limits stew? how were we going to grind all of that meat for the ice cream cones? and who was going to make 800 tortillas? who was going to fry them? where would we find an edible ink printer for the panforte? who was going to come do all of this work for free? what would all of these people wear? and what if someone got hurt?

are you catching my drift yet? add into that mix of confusion 130 volunteers (some who are emailless), an amazing yet inexplicable mission statement, some major menu-printing mayhem the day before the event, and a lot of hipsters, drugs and alcohol, and you might begin to understand why my neck (storage space for my stress) is only now starting to relax, three weeks later.

but, it couldn't have been better. magical things happen when people come together with good in their hearts:


i had a fantastic time working with so many wonderful people: sam, jerome and stacie (who i told had to induct me as a member of OPEN after all of that!), but also sasha, mark gravel, howie, christa, the avedano's gals, and frank. and about 100 others.



one more thing...

about jsf's book:


after those three years of research, i'd think he would have learned the difference between a cow and a steer.

people, please, if you're going to write or talk about the beef industry, learn to use the correct terminology:

bull: an intact male destined for breeding
calf: a young bovine of either gender less than a year old
cow: a mature female that has had at least one calf
first-calf heifer: a young female pregnant with or nursing her first calf; first-calf heifers often need extra help with calving
heifer: a young female
steer: a castrated male
yearling: a bovine of either gender between one and two years old

copied directly from page 21 of bill niman's niman ranch cookbook. since bill hands copies of that book out like candy, i'm pretty sure jsf was given one on his visit to their house...

these days, the vast majority of the beef we eat comes from steers, not cows. cows usually become breeders or dairy animals, but not meat animals.

10.30.2009


photo by allison long of the kansas city star

i've been beagle-sitting. in fact, they're snuggled up under my arm right now snoring away. and since mister's nose always trembles when he dreams, his whiskers keep tickling me.

i've been to kansas city--my first time in middle america. novella and i went to bad seed to teach chicken 101 and it was a total success. there are some nice photos in this slideshow, but somehow in the article, i became samin noscrat. oh well.

on the plane, novella lent me eating animals by jonathan safran foer. let me begin by talking about my deep love of this man's novels. do you guys remember when i made everyone read everything is illuminated for our short-lived book club? do you remember the fan letters i wrote to him? do you remember when i trekked out to city arts and lectures to see him speak, standing nervously in line afterward to have him sign my book and ask him about our mutual friend?

this is a person i have long admired and respected.

but now, he's abandoned fiction and entered my sphere. this world is one i take seriously, immersing myself in its issues and doing my best to educate myself so that one day i might be able to improve the state of some of these awful systems. i've been working hard for over ten years to learn as much as i can about what's going on in this country's disjointed food chain, and along the way i've been lucky enough to get to know most of the people jsf features in his book.

i'm already well acquainted with most of the imagery and statistics he uses to shock people into vegetarianism, but where jsf argues that being a compassionate omnivore is pointless because you'll definitely falter from time to time (giving in and eating factory-farmed meat for social reasons or out of convenience), and because the mere presence of meat eaters out in the world (compassionate or not) encourages others to eat meat, others who may not put the energy or care into finding out how their meat animals were raised and killed, i respectfully disagree. i'm going to go ahead and give intelligent people some credit.

i won't eat meat unless i know and respect the person who raised it, pure and simple. i won't eat fish unless i know the fishmonger and respect his techniques. i won't eat eggs or drink milk unless i am well-acquainted with the processes used to produce them. and i know lots of other people who are not only willing to do the same, but to help educate others about why it's so important.

i'm not going to give up on trying to change our ailing food systems. i won't retract my support of people like bill and nicolette hahn niman--who have arguably done more than anyone else to provide an alternative to factory-raised beef and pork in this country--by refusing to buy the exceptional meat from animals they raise. almost all of the ranchers and food-folks featured in eating animals (frank reese, patrick martins, bill and nicolette, michael pollan) have made huge strides in creating and furthering an alternative-meat industry in this country, and to ignore and disparage the work they have done for the past fifty years would be a travesty.

at one point, jsf tries to appeal to raw human emotion, saying that if you can't imagine eating your pet dog for dinner, you shouldn't be eating meat at all. i wish i had the book before me to quote it directly, but he says something to the effect of, "well, it sure would be a lot more sustainable to eat our pets than putting all of that energy and environmental input into raising meat animals. i mean, we're already feeding them all of that food anyway, right?"

uh. no.

what are most americans feeding their pets? i'm pretty sure it's meat by-product--the stuff from the slaughterhouses that humans won't touch. i'm pretty sure it consists mostly of GMO grains, takes plenty of environmental resources to produce and ship, and that its prohibitively expensive price makes it the opposite of sustainable. not to mention that presenting people with a completely irrational choice is a sort of ridiculous way to get them to think about eating sustainably. how about this option: instead of raising dogs at home to eat, what about raising chickens or rabbits?

i'm really riled up. i want everyone i know to read this book so that we can use it as a starting point for an intelligent discussion about food systems. i want people to read the stories about how turkeys, chickens, pigs and cattle are raised, killed and processed in this country. i want them to be disgusted, and be moved to work for change if for no other reason than out of self-interest. i want people to get riled up. i just don't think that becoming vegetarian or vegan is the only way.

i wrote to jsf the other day, and he wrote back--i think we'll agree to disagree respectfully, and engage in a serious discussion about what can be done. i'll let you know what happens...in the meantime, i'm gonna snuggle with these beagles as much as i can.

10.19.2009

us moving the steer into avedano's :: photo by yojaira alvarez


i have so much to say.  

there are almost no words that can adequately describe OPENfuture.  

i have to go take care of some loose ends, but come back this week for the back story.  it's pretty looney.  


in the meantime, look here for others' versions of what happened:




10.16.2009

note to self: never again schedule huge, high profile events involving feeding hundreds of people a mere six days apart. and definitely don't plan two cross-country trips in the proceeding month, either.

10.13.2009

just saw this article.


i have to have this book!!!

you might not know this, but i am obsessed with handmade pasta. ob-sessed.

obsessed.