Thanksgiving Round Up

Last year I went on a Thanksgiving binge, with all sorts of classes and blog posts.  This year, I am in relative hibernation.

But, the information is all still useful!  So, let me compile it all here for ease of use.

Working Ahead for Thanksgiving

On Ordering a Bird, and Other Basics

Recipes:
Spatchcocked Turkey with Herbs and Butter
Charlie's Prune and Sausage Stuffing
Roasted Vegetables in Agrodolce
Cranberry Sauce Two Ways
Fried Sage Salsa Verde
Aaron's Pie Crust
Pie!
Skillet Cornbread

And, a handful of Thanksgiving goodies from some of my favorite sources:
Thanksgiving Condiments at Food52
Sam Sifton's Thanksgiving Book
A Canal House Thanksgiving from The Splendid Table
Essential Thanksgiving at NYT Dining
David Tanis's Thanksgiving on the Ranch from Food & Wine
Suzanne Goin's Thanksgiving Menu at Bon Appétit
Sweet and Salty Roasted Pumpkin Seeds by Dash and Bella at Food52
Chunky Cranberry Jam from Saving the Season

Also, I just want to say that I had the best pumpkin pie I've ever tasted from Black Jet Baking Co. last week.  If you're not up for baking, then order one from Gillian.  You won't be disappointed.

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Pie!

photo: peden + munk

Dorie Greenspan's Pecan Pie

1 9-inch pie crust, blind baked and cooled
3/4 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3 large eggs at room temperature
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder (I sometimes just use a shot of espresso)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups (about 7 ounces) pecan halves or pieces
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.  Put the pie plate on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone mat.

In a large bowl, whisk the corn syrup and brown sugar together until smooth.  Whisk in the melted butter, then add the eggs one at a time, beating until you have a smooth, foamy mixture  Add the espresso powder, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt and give the batter a good mix.  Rap the bowl against the counter a couple of times to pop any bubbles that might have formed, then stir in the pecans and chocolate.  Turn the filling into the curst.

Bake the pie for 15 minutes.  Meanwhile, make a foil shield for the crust by cutting a 9-inch circle out of the center of an 11- or 12-inch square of aluminum foil.

Lower the oven temperature to 350°F.  Place the foil shield on top of the pie crust--the filling will be exposed, the crust covered by the foil.  Bake the pie for another 15 to 20 minutes (total baking time is 30 to 35 minutes), or until it has puffed (the middle and the edges should be fairly evenly puffed), is beautifully browned and no longer jiggles when tapped.  Transfer the pie plate to a rack, remove the shield and cool to room temperature.

Heirloom Squash and Sage Pie

1 blind baked 9-inch pie crust
1 medium or 2 small pumpkins and/or sweet winter heirloom squashes, such as Triamble, red kabocha, or butternut (about 1 1/2 pounds total), cut into halves and seeds removed
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
3 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup packed dark-brown sugar
2 tablespoons brandy
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Sage leaves for garnish
Lightly sweetened freshly whipped cream, for serving

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Drizzle pumpkin and squash wedges with olive oil, and roast cut-side down on a rimmed baking sheet until tender (times will vary).  Remove from oven, peel when cool, and allow to drain in a cheesecloth-lined sieve, weighted, for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.  Once drained, puree in a food processor until smooth.  You should have 2 cups puree for the pie.  Any leftover is perfect for ravioli or soup!

Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Whisk pumpkin and squash puree, eggs, egg yolks, heavy cream, sugar, brandy, sage, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a bowl.

Pour filling into pie shell, and smooth top using an offset spatula. Garnish with a few sage leaves, if you like.  Bake until just set but still slightly wobbly in the center, about 1 hour (filling will continue to set as it cools). Let cool on a wire rack. Serve slightly warm, at room temperature, or chilled, with whipped cream.
Note: I wrote this recipe for the November 2011 issue of Martha Stewart Living.  If it looks familiar that's why.

And of course: Aaron's pie crust

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Spatchcocked Turkey with Herbs and Butter

photo source: Martha Stewart Living

Spatchcocked Turkey with Herbs and Butter

1 14-16 pound turkey

8 ounces (2 sticks) of butter, sliced lengthwise into 4 slices each

¼ cup sage leaves, picked

¼ cup parsley leaves, picked

8 sprigs thyme

Salt

Pepper

Two days before you plan to cook, spatchcock and season the bird. 

First, remove the neck, giblets and liver from the bird.  Reserve the neck for stock, and if you like, the giblets and liver for gravy or another use. 

With heavy duty kitchen shears, snip down along both sides of the spine (the underside of the bird) to remove it.  You can start from the tail or neck end, whichever you prefer.

Once you’ve removed the spine, reserve it for stock as well. 

Lay the turkey flat on the cutting board and push down on the breastbone until you hear a pop. 

Place a few whole sage leaves, parsley leaves and thyme sprigs on each slice of butter. 

Season the bird on both sides generously with salt, and if you like, pepper. 

Flip the bird over so it’s right side up and from the bottom of the breast, gently wedge your fingers in under the skin to separate the skin from the membrane which holds it to the meat.  Work gently so as not to tear the skin. 

Carefully slide 3 or 4 slices of butter, herb-side-up under the skin over the breast.  Replace the skin. 

Place the turkey in a plastic bag and return to the fridge. 

On the day you plan to cook the bird, remove it from the fridge 4 hours in advance to come up to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.  Place the bird, breast side up, in a large roasting pan on the bottom rack.  After 30 minutes reduce the heat to 375°F for another 45 minutes, turning the pan 180°.  Once the bird is golden brown, reduce the heat to 350°F and continue cooking until the juices at the thigh joint run clear (or the temperature registers at 160°F on a meat thermometer), about another 30-45 minutes. 

Let rest, covered with foil, for 10 minutes before carving. 

Serves 14-16

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Fried Sage Salsa Verde

The Thanksgiving table is always shy of acid and herbs, if you ask me, so salsa verde is a great way to reintroduce a bit of that into the meal.  Delicious on roast vegetables and turkey alike, this version works in that crucial fall flavor: sage.

photo souce: sarah at the delicious life

Fried Sage Salsa Verde

Serves 8 

2 bunches sage, leaves picked

1 bunch parsley, leaves picked and chopped finely

1 shallot, diced finely

Salt

Peanut or grapeseed oil for frying

Red wine vinegar

Extra virgin olive oil

First, macerate the shallot.  Cover with red wine vinegar and set aside.

Next, fry the sage.  In a deep saucepot, bring 2 cups of frying oil to 360°F.  Drop in a scant handful of the sage and fry for about 20 seconds, or until the bubbles slow down.  Remove from the oil and drain on a pan lined with paper towels.  Repeat with remaining sage leaves.

When the sage has cooled, it will be crisp.  You can either chop it with a knife or crumble it with your fingers.  In a large bowl, combine the parsley and sage and cover with olive oil.  Season with salt. 

When you are ready to serve the salsa, combine the shallots, but not the vinegar, with the herbs.  Taste the salsa and adjust for salt, and if needed, add some of the leftover vinegar to taste. 

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Working ahead

Planning and prepping ahead--and thinking like a professional cook--is the key to getting the entire Thanksgiving meal on the table at the same time without committing either seppuku or homicide.

photo source: the amazing andrea gentl of hungry ghost food + travel

The trick is to spread out tasks that take lots of time, lots of oven space, lots of stove space, or make big messes so that you aren't out of space at the last minute.  So choosing dishes that reheat well, or that taste good served at room temperature, is crucial to making Thursday go smoothly.  

Here are a few ways you can work ahead for next week:

Before Tuesday:

• Make pie dough and freeze
• If using a frozen turkey, defrost so you can season or brine it on Tuesday
• Make turkey or chicken stock and freeze for gravy

Tuesday:

• Season or brine turkey
• Buy bread to use for stuffing, or make cornbread for stuffing

Wednesday: 

• Make cranberry sauce
• Wash herbs, greens and lettuces
• Roast pumpkin for pie if using fresh squash
• Measure out ingredients for pecan pie filling, pumpkin pie filling, etc.
• Tear croutons for stuffing and dry out in oven
• Clean green beans
• Make soup, if planning to serve
• Peel potatoes and keep whole in water
• Peel onions and carrots that you might use in any dishes, such as creamed corn, creamed spinach, stuffing, etc.
• Make any caramel sauces or things like that that you might need to garnish desserts
• If you're insane enough to want to make homemade ice cream, get it in the freezer by tonight.
• If you are using fresh chestnuts, get them boiled and peeled.

Thursday:
Early morning

• Pull turkey out of fridge to come up to room temp
• Blind bake pie doughs
• Brown sausage or bacon for stuffing
• Prep vegetables--trim and halve Brussels sprouts, peel squash, peel any root vegetables, clean and trim cauliflower or broccoli, etc.
• Roast vegetables that might need roasting--these do well at room temperature!
• Cook off onions or any mirepoix
• Make creamed spinach--this reheats well.
• Do anything like seeding pomegranates, peeling persimmons, toasting nuts, or making vinaigrette that might be necessary for the salad

Heading into the afternoon and dinner time

• Roast the turkey
• Make the gravy with turkey drippings
• Bake off pies
• Make mashed potatoes and keep warm in double boiler
• Assemble and bake stuffing/dressing

Right before dinner

• Reheat dishes that need to be reheated, like soups, creamed spinach, or gravy
• Toss the salad greens
• Carve the turkey

Before dessert

• Whip cream
• Portion pies

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Roasted Vegetables in Agrodolce

Though this recipe is for brussels sprouts and butternut squash, it'll work with any dense root or vegetable, such as sweet potatoes, parsnips, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, onions or even green beans!

photo source

Roasted Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce

Serves 8-10

1 pound Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed

1 large butternut squash, cut into 1-inch slices, skin on , seeds discarded

¼ cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

½ medium red onion, sliced thinly

½ teaspoon red chili flakes

1 clove garlic, pounded

¼ cup fresh mint leaves

Salt

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Preheat oven to 400°F. 

Season the squash lightly with salt, drizzle with olive oil and place in a single layer on 1 or 2 cookie sheets. 

Halve the Brussels sprouts and season lightly with salt.  Drizzle with olive oil and place in a single layer on 1 or 2 cookie sheets, cut side down. 

Place vegetables into the preheated oven and cook 20-24 minutes, until tender and caramelized. 

Meanwhile, stir together another ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, sugar, onion, chili flakes, and garlic and season with salt. 

Check on the vegetables to make sure that they are browning evenly, rotating pans to control the heat.  When you are satisfied that they are cooked, remove from the oven and mix in a big bowl.  Pour marinade over and allow to sit for 20 minutes.  Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Garnish with torn mint leaves before serving.  

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Cranberry Sauce Two Ways

Cranberry sauce, with its color and its acid, is one of the most important dishes on the Thanksgiving table. It's also pretty much the simplest dish to make.

Here are two versions--one basic, and one a bit more complicated. Both are perfect on that leftover turkey sandwich.

photo source: cranberry squircle, by Muffet

Super Simple Cranberry-Orange Sauce

Serves 12

12 ounces (1 bag) fresh cranberries
1 cup water
6 tablespoons sugar

3 bay leaves

1 orange, juiced and zested finely
Pinch of salt

In a medium, non-reactive saucepan, combine all ingredients, bring to a boil, lower to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Stir and taste as it cooks, adding water, sugar and salt as needed. 

Once it cools, it will set up a lot.  Add water or fresh orange juice, if desired, to thin it out.  Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold.


Cranberry Sauce with Quince and Bay 

Serves 12

5 quinces (2 to 2 1/4 pounds), peeled, cored, cut into 1-inch chunks
3 cups water
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon peel
3 bay leaves
8 ounces cranberries
3 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt

Bring first 5 ingredients to a boil in heavy large saucepan over medium–high heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to medium–low. Cover and simmer until quinces are soft, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Pour mixture into large strainer set over bowl; reserve juices.

Return quince mixture to same saucepan; mash with the back of a wooden spoon. Add cranberries; cook over medium heat until most of berries burst, stirring frequently, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and lemon juice to taste. Transfer sauce to bowl. Before serving, stir enough reserved juices into sauce to thin to desired consistency. Serve sauce cold or at room temperature.

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics--Charlie's Prune and Sausage Stuffing

This is Charlie's sausage and prune stuffing, which I have whole-heartedly adopted as my own.  The prunes and wine offer much-needed acid to balance out the sweetness of the vegetables, and everything else on the Thanksgiving table.

This stuffing is SO GOOD when fried up the next day, served with a poached egg for breakfast.  Total heaven.

photo: Aya Brackett for Martha Stewart

Ingredients
1 loaf (2 pounds) day-old country bread, crust removed and bread torn into 1-inch cubes
4 cups chicken stock
12 ounces prunes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
2 bunches hearty leafy greens, such as Tuscan kale, stemmed and coarsely chopped (about 8 cups)
2 pounds sweet Italian sausage, casings removed, crumbled
5 celery stalks, chopped
4 carrots, chopped
2 onions, chopped

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces


Preheat oven to 250°F. Bake bread on a baking sheet in a single layer until dried but not browned, about 15 minutes. Remove bread, and let cool. Raise oven temperature to 350°F.

Bring stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat. Add prunes, and let soak for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook greens until tender, seasoning with salt as you go, about 10 minutes, and transfer to a plate. Let cool. Wipe out skillet.

Heat remaining tablespoon oil in skillet over medium heat. Brown sausage, stirring occasionally, until just cooked through and no longer pink, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl using a slotted spoon. Add more oil to skillet if needed, and cook celery, carrots, and onions until tender, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Drain prunes, reserving poaching liquid. Add prunes, bread, greens, and vegetable mixture to bowl with sausage. Gradually add reserved poaching liquid (about 2 1/2 cups) and wine, stirring to combine. Stir in parsley, sage and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.  The mixture should be really juicy, salty, and balanced with the acid from the wine.

Divide stuffing between two buttered  9-by-13-inch baking dishes. Dot tops with butter. Bake until browned, about 45 minutes.

Home Ec: Thanksgiving Basics

photo source: Martha Stewart

Alright, guys!

So, here are some Thanksgiving basics I owe my Home Ec students.  I thought all of you might benefit from these tips and recipes, so I'm posting them here over the course of the week.

Ordering a Turkey:
My favorite turkey these days is the BN Ranch broadbreasted bird.  Raised to the highest protocols, they still come with all of that fabulous white meat perfect for sandwiches, which is the real reason we all love turkey in the first place.  BN Ranch also has the finest heritage turkeys to be found.

Other birds I'm into:
Mary's Organic
Willie Bird Organic

Sources for turkey in the Bay Area:
Bi Rite Market
Magnani's Poultry
Berkeley Bowl
Cafe Rouge 
The Local Butcher Shop
Avedano's Meats
Marina Meats
Belcampo

PLACE ORDERS NOW, FOLKS!

How big a bird to order?
Well, for meat on the bone I usually order 1 pound per person for plentiful eating.  For plentiful eating, plus leftovers, I order more like 1.25 pounds per person.

Tip: Rather than getting birds much bigger than 16 or 18 pounds, I prefer to get two smaller birds, which tend to cook more evenly.

---

Cooking the turkey

In general, you can calculate that a turkey will take 12-13 minutes a pound to cook.  So, a 14 pound turkey will take about 3 hours to cook at about 350°F.  The only way to know to sure is to check, either with a thermometer or a knife.  If the juices at the thigh joint run clear, the leg is cooked. Temperature-wise, I cook to 160°F in both the breast and the leg.

I usually start the bird at 400°F for 30 mins, then down to 375°F for another 30 minutes, then finish at 350°F, though now I am thoroughly intrigued by Jacques Pepin's steam and roast method.

Tips:

• Salt the bird generously at least 2 days in advance of cooking.  If your bird is frozen when you receive it, let it thaw for a couple of days in (or out of) the fridge, then salt it.  
• Remove the neck, liver, giblets, and neck skin and reserve.  
• If you wanna stick herbs and butter under the skin, go ahead and do that when you season it.  
• If you're gonna truss the bird, do it right then, too, and then you'll be done messing around with the bird.
• If you want to spatchcock it and cook it flat, remove the spine before salting so you can really get salt in on both sides.  
• If you want to remove breasts and legs and cook separately, then do that before salting, too, so you can let the salt penetrate more thoroughly.  
• You can put (virtually) anything you want into the cavity, like veggies, a halved orange, or herbs.  But I don't think any of that makes much of a difference.
• Most importantly, on the day of cooking, take the bird out of the fridge at least 4 hours before cooking to let it come up to room temperature.  This will allow the bird to cook much more quickly and evenly!  

And of course: